• 1998 Johnson 225 Venom

AuthorTopic:   Starting OMC V6 Carburetor Motordbalinposted 10:00 PM ET (US)        The author begins his narrative by telling us he went to the shore a week ago and put my boat in the water. Well, she is every happy about starting up. Never made it off the dock. Had to get new battery.

Free manual 1984 johnson j140tlcrd. 1979 johnson 25 horsepower outboard motor owners manuel. 60 hp johnson outboard manual. Johnson evinrude outboard service manual. 115hp johnson outboard manual 1980. 1996 evinrude 225 repair manual. 30 hp johnson manual. 2003 140 johnson down loadable parts manual. 1988 70 hp johnson outboard does not start. 1995 OMC PARTS CATALOG Evinrude Johnson Outboard Manual 20 25 30 35 ROPE #225 See more like this 1995 OMC PARTS CATALOG Evinrude Johnson Outboard Manual 25 30 TE Models #227 New (Other).

One week later tried again. The 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6 outboard motor started right up on a hose, but off the ramp nothing. After 10 minutes with unclear, perhaps meant 'throttle open one-quarter-full the 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6 outboard motor starts, warms up, and then runs well. We sat for maybe one hour, went to start the motor, fires up no problem. Startup and shutdown, startup again, over and over.Why is the 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6 outboard motor hard to start the first time in the water? Is there a trick for the startup on the water? Or, could something be wrong?

The motor seems to run well on the water. What could be the problem?jimhposted 09:17 AM ET (US)           Every motor has its own procedure for starting.

I recommend you read the owner's manual and find the starting procedure for your motor. If you follow the precise procedure recommended by the manufacturer, most motors will start easily. I am serious about this-many people think they know how to start their motor, but they do not follow the recommended procedure.Buckdaposted 10:07 AM ET (US)           If you are pushing the key in (choke), and she still will not start easily, try this trick:Remove the cowling. On the left side of the powerhead (on your right as you face the motor from inside the boat), low on the side, there will be a little red switch. This is manual enrichment valve. Flip that switch, and start the motor. After the motor starts, return the switch to the original position.If this is the problem, you either have a bad keyswitch or a bad fuel primer solenoid.Let us know if that works or not.Davetom976posted 10:14 AM ET (US)           Funny, this reminds me of my old johnson.

I had to throttle her up a little (not in gear) and hold the choke. She'd start coughing and then clear her throat. Put the throttle in neutral and she'd be find all day.seahorseposted 06:39 PM ET (US)           That motor requires about 300- to 350-RPM to generate enough voltage for the ignition system, so it is important that the starter motor, cables, connections, and batteries are in very good condition. Be sure to have Champion QL78YC plugs gapped at.030'If you sure the above items are OK, then try this sequence for starting:Trim motor all the way down, but make sure the idle reliefs are not submerged, and squeeze the ball (hold vertical, arrow up) until rock hard. Leave throttle at dead idle and turn key to ON, then press in to activate the choke (primer) and continue to hold it in for 5 seconds. Keep the key pushed in to START.

The motor should fire up within 10 seconds of cranking if everything is OK.On a colder morning you may have to push the key in once of twice to activate the choke if the motor starts to die until it warms up a bit. The engine has a built in fast idle while the motor is cold and should slow down to a normal idle within a few minutes.dbalinposted 09:53 PM ET (US)           Thanks guys. I will let you know what happens. There is one more problem.

On the primer solenoid one of the screws on top was lose. The primer solenoid was leaking fuel. Tighten it up. Could this be a concern?

Going back to the shore on Friday. Let you know what happens on Sunday night. Thanks again!seahorseposted 12:39 AM ET (US)           Any fuel leakage from the primer or any plugged up primer lines or fittings can also contribute to cold start problems.dbalinposted 01:07 AM ET (US)           No leak now. I went tonight hook up water to the boat. Did what the book said to do for starting. Primer five seconds, turned key; started right up.

What is a idle relief? And where is it?I know in the long run the boat is okay. The 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6 motor runs nicely on water at 3,500-RPM. This is all new to me. I am off to a good with all you guys. Talk later.jimhposted 08:31 AM ET (US)           You are probably asking about the exhaust idle relief. In an outboard motor the passage for the exhaust gases is typically through the propeller hub and under water.

When an engine is first started there will be too much back pressure in the exhaust passage to the underwater exit, so an alternative exhaust passage is provided. This removes the back pressure on the exhaust. Once the motor is started and the boat in motion, it becomes much easier for the exhaust to flow out through the propeller hub and exit underwater. Most of the exhaust flows that way.

During idle, the exhaust gases flow out via the exhaust idle relief, which is typically located at the rear centerline of the midsection of the outboard above the waterline.seahorseposted 08:32 AM ET (US)           Glad it starts OK for you know. It's amazing how well things work when things are done properly!Idle reliefs are the openings in the black rubber grommet on the aft part of your motor, on each side of the water telltale/flusher fitting. On bracketed boats or some bass boats with large jackplates, those reliefs may be underwater and the resulting backpressure may cause hard starting.jimhposted 08:40 AM ET (US)           When you operate the motor with a hose adapter, there is no back pressure on the main exhaust because it is not underwater.

This probably contributed to the easier starting of the motor you noted when it was on a hose compared to at the boat ramp. At the ramp you probably had the propeller in the water, so the exhaust was underwater. This created more back pressure on the exhaust.All cold engines need a bit of enrichment of the fuel-air mixture at starting. On the OMC V6 there is a fuel enrichment solenoid valve to provide extra fuel at starting. Once the engine starts it may have to be run at a faster speed than normal, around 1,500-RPM, until it warms up. Once warm the engine should idle at 800-RPM out of gear without stalling.A 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6 has intelligent controls built into its ignition system. It will increase the idle speed until the engine temperature reaches operating level.

The engine temperature is sensed electrically via a temperature sensor on the cylinder head.For about four or five years I ran a 1992 Evinrude 225-HP V6 engine. It started and ran beautifully, and typically only had to be cranked over very briefly to start. There is no reason why your engine should not be able to start, run at fast-idle automatically until warm, and not stall. As seahorse mentions, if the air is very cold you may have to push the ignition key in once or twice to add a bit more fuel to sustain the engine in the first 30-seconds of running.dbalinposted 08:07 PM ET (US)           Ok in the daylight when i could see.I found the exhaust idle relief. Is it possible for some kind of blockage in side. I can feel some exhust i can cover it with my hand.

I know there is no back pressure out of water.But in the water it's different.dbalinposted 11:28 PM ET (US)           Put boat in the water on Saturday. Pumped primer for 15 seconds. Turned key to start. But she coughed.

Went to plan B: 1/4-throttle to 1/2-throttle. The 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6 engine coughed, sputtered, then started up. The story gets better.To the bay we go. Go through the last NO WAKE zone into the bay, 1,500-RPM, 2,000-RPM, 3,500-RPM, 4,000-RPM-fast enough for me.

Half a mile down the coast and 200-yards out I get a BEEP, then one more. Maybe we are going too fast. I back off. This was not a problem before. The BEEP starts again. So I turn around to head back and reduce engine speed to 2,000-RPM.

Keep in mind the motor sounds fine. I'm backing off because of the BEEP. The BEEPs are now 15- to 60-seconds apart. Down to 1,200-RPM, and the BEEP goes to solid tone.

I turned off the 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6. I feared the worst thing. We drift to the beach. I looked at the water temperature and re-started the motor. The water pump seemed to be working, so off we went again at 2,000-RPM.In minutes the BEEP started again. Throttled back to idle, with a solid BEEP. My hand on the key, the BEEP stuttered.

I turn the key back a little bit, and the BEEP stopped. Okay, I thought. Throttled up to 3,500 and was back at the dock in 20 minutes. Everything seemed to be okay.

I was a little spoooked, but okay. Checked the cylinder pressure readings in PSI at 90/90/90 portside, and 90/85/85 starboard side. I think that is okay, right? Thermostats appear to be okay.What do you think caused the alarm system on the 1995 Johnson 225-HP V6 engine to BEEP?jimhposted 08:15 AM ET (US)           Readdbalinposted 12:26 PM ET (US)           I did read the book. I think fuel or key switch maybe bad. It seemed to run fine.dbalinposted 05:25 PM ET (US)           I think the cause of the warning BEEP could be fuel related. The warning BEEP was a weird chirp.

The following numbers refer to notes in the article that is hyperlinked above-jimh. Not number 1 or 2 or 3. Note number 4 in the article hyperlinked above which is a mention of a fuel restriction alarm is the best one to match up with the alarm behavior of the author's motor.

The solid alarm sond occurs only at idle, but the other alarm sounds were one to two minutes apart.Can I check the fuel pump? Or the carburetors? They might be the cause of the alarm.

How can iI test the fuel pump and the six carburetors on this motor?jimhposted 09:54 PM ET (US)           If you want to perform diagnostic procedures for the fuel system on your motor, I suggest you invest in the OEM service manual for your motor. Since your motor was made in 1995, you may have trouble buying a copy of the OEM service manual from Evinrude. I do not know if they have any inventory for manuals that are 15-years out of date. Check with some Evinrude dealers to see if they have a service manual available for sale.If BRP cannot supply the 15-year-old service manual, check with Ken Cook:jimhposted 09:44 AM ET (US)           In OMC engines made prior to 1996, you have to interpret the meaning of the alarm sound by its cadence and the circumstances during which it occurs. A steady alarm sound is generally only possible from the temperature sensor.The alarm sensors are all wired to the alarm sounder in what is known as a WIRED-OR configuration. You can easily determine which sensor is causing the alarm sounder to operate by simply disconnecting each sensor during the time when the alarm sounder is sounding. When you disconnect the sensor that is causing the alarm sounder to operate, the alarm will go silent.The alarm sensors are typically connected to the alarm sounder with wires that have a TAN or LT BROWN insulation, and sometimes there is an identifying color stripe added.

This should help you to locate the wires. If you have a service manual there will be an electrical pictorial diagram printed in color which will further aid in locating the wires.jimhposted 01:42 PM ET (US)           The carburetors on a c.1995 OMC V6 engine are not likely to be a direct cause of an alarm.

There is no sensor in the alarm system which monitors the carburetors.The fuel pump in a c.1995 OMC V6 engine has a sensor which is part of the alarm system. For further explanation of the alarm system on a typical OMC V6, see the article in the REFERENCE section on automatic oiling systems:Automatic Oiling System: OMC/Bombardier versus MercurySee the material under the subheading Alarm Sensors and System.You might also find reading the excellent article on the fuel pump used in OMC engines, also in our REFERENCE collection:newtposted 04:38 PM ET (US)           Jim, the vacuum sensor will trigger a constant alarm also. In addition, as I learned from Seahorse and my own experience, a faulty oil level sensor can trigger a constant alarm, even though it is not intended to do so.dbalinposted 07:11 PM ET (US)           Thanks everybody. I saw a down load a shop manual on line. I need to get something. Thanks for being patient with me. I think the cause of the alarn BEEP could the key switch, too.jimhposted 07:51 PM ET (US)           For information on the ignition key switch wiring, seedbalinposted 09:00 PM ET (US)           thanks jim the reason i think could be the key switch is when this bule all happend and i turned thethe boat off two times with in 5 mins.

The restart at the run position. If i turn the key slightly to the off position the gauges will turn off and on. Same thing with alarm system.thats how it stoped. Is i slightly pushed back on the key gauges working it was maybe 20mins. Ride all was quite.at home it will not act up i thought this could be a clue.dbalinposted 02:24 AM ET (US)           it's not the fuel.

I think it's the low oil sen.the temp.would be high. Between the therms there is something between the water lines.what is that?seahorseposted 08:53 AM ET (US)           quote:If i turn the key slightly to the off position the gauges will turn off and on.If you have the ignition switch that uses the safety lanyard clip that fastens around the keyswitch, then be sure to keep it installed. If run without the clip installed, the keyswitch is easily jossled and can turn off with a very small movement or force. It also jumps to the OFF position easily if you let go the key from the START position too quickly.

That is sometimes the reason for the common complaint of starting up then quitting right away.The safety clip provides a positive detent action for the OFF-ON-START positions.

OMC 60 DEGREE V6 OPTICAL IGNITION TIPSAguide to troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude60 Degree V6 Opticalignition (OIS 2000) 1991-2003 model years.The following information is presented for the use of MASTERTECH'S customers as a courtesy by CDI Electronics. This ignition system produces very high voltages and due care and caution must be practiced in working with it.The timing wheel cover is a machinery guard. Use care and caution when working on a running engine. MASTERTECH MARINE, CDI Electronics and their respective employees cannot be held responsible for any injuries or damage resulting from the use of, or application of the following data. Please read the final paragraph below.We have chosen to narrow this troubleshooting guide to the Johnson/Evinrude 60° 6-cylinder ignition (OIS 2000) 1991-2003 model years.Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude QuikStart ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the QuikStart and rev limiter circuits. They require a timer base for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the timer base.The OIS 2000 optical system uses the stator charge coils to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the electronics both inside the power pack and inside the sensor.

The other QuickStart models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack).The OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and fire the coils beyond cranking speed. The optical sensor located on the top is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack.The pack is smart enough to know not to fire if the engine is not turning in the right direction. Functions to reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2,500 when the engine overheats. QuikStart (a 10° timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1,100, the engine temperature is below 105 F and the yellow/red wire from the starter solenoid is not feeding 12 volts DC to the power pack all of the time. QuikStart also will activate for five to 10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature.At cranking speed the voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate the circuits inside the power pack, therefore there is battery voltage supplied from the starter solenoid via the yellow/red striped wire.

The extra voltage is needed in order for the optical sensor to operate correctly as low voltage from the battery and/or stator can cause intermittent or no fire at all.There are a couple of critical items you need to be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires need to be the gray inductive resistor wires - these are not automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs should be the factory recommended QL78YC.

Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise. CDI Electronics has the spark plug wires available as a set P/N: 931-4921.A breakthrough at CDI Electronics has allowed the use of microprocessor digital control circuits to handle the timing, QuikStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter and data logging inside the power pack. This allows the timing to be set using a timing light, remote starter, spark gap tester, piston stop tool and a jumper wire.With these new digital power packs, you disconnect the port temperature switch/sensor leads and use a jumper wire to short the tan temperature sensor wire to engine ground. Once you have verified the timing pointer using a piston stop tool (or a dial indicator), connect all spark plug wires to a spark gap tester, and connect a remote starter to the engine and a timing light to the No.1 spark plug wire.When you crank the engine over with the remote starter and check the timing, you will notice the timing is set to approximately 4°- 6° ATDC (after top dead center). By advancing the throttle all the way and rechecking the timing for WOT (wide open throttle), you should see approximately 19° - 20° BTDC (before top dead center).

Without this timing feature built into the power pack, you would not be able to easily set the timing for idle or WOT without the Johnson/Evinrude optical diagnostic tool.Another nice features allowed by the digital circuitry include the ability to compensate for a bad temperature switch, a smoother rev limit, customized rev limiters and special timing curves. Additional itemsto be aware of:.Early 150 and 175 HP engines did not have the tension washer on top of the sensor encoder wheel. This washer is necessary to keep the encoder locked in place.

If it is not on the engine, you may experience erratic firing of the cylinders or no fire at all. If it is missing, please install the correct washer.1991 and 1992 engines did not have a shift interrupter switch. This resulted in hard shifting and required a conversion to fix.The shift interrupter switch killed the fire on the starboard bank of cylinders from 1993 through mid 1990s. By 1998, a change was made for the shift interrupter switch to kill the fire on the port bank.1991 through late 1990s engines sometimes developed a crack in the water jacket allowing water into the intake at high speed. This typically resulted in #1 cylinder-ingesting water. You can usually see signs of the head looking like it has been steam-cleaned inside the combustion chamber.1991 and 1992 engines came out with a black-sleeved power pack (P/N 584122) and stator (P/N 584109) and used a P/N 584265 sensor.

In 1993 the power packs were changed to a gray sleeve (production) power pack (P/N 584910). The stator was changed to a gray sleeve (P/N 584981) and the sensor was changed to P/N 584914. Engines with ignition problems had a service replacement power pack with a blue sleeve and a replacement sensor installed as a set.

The blue-sleeved power pack was only available as a service replacement. The gray-sleeved stator could be used with all of the power packs, but the black-sleeved stator was to be used only with a black-sleeved power pack. The sensor P/N changed to 586343 in the late 1990s.Some engines do not have the RFI/MFI noise shield between the ignition coils and the power pack. If it is missing, replace it!.The gray inductive spark plug wires replace the black copper spark plug wires that were used on the early 1990s engines.Originally the spark plugs were the QL82YC, but that recommendation was changed to the QL78YC for improved performance. Helpful tools used by the author in troubleshooting these engines:. DVA Adapter P/N:.

1998 Johnson 225 Venom

Fluke Multimeter P/N:. Spark Gap Tester P/N:No fire at all.Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position.Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction).Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness.Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders.Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harness's black/yellow wire for shorts to ground.Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns.

If it does, use the fluke meter set to ohms and see if the black/yellow wires are shorted to engine ground.Check the battery voltage on the yellow/red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables.Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap.Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease and the like. If you need to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur.Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier.Using piercing probes and DVA adapter or DVA Multimeter, check the resistance and DVA voltage on the 6-pin stator connector while connected as follows:RED LEAD TO:BLACK LEAD TO:RESISTANCEDVA READINGOrangeOrange/Black50-60 OHMS12V or moreBrownBrown/Yellow450-600 OHMS150V or moreBrown/WhiteBrown/Black450-600 OHMS150V or moreNote:Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that needs to be checked. Sim 4 cheat codes. Please review our before you place an order.DISCLAIMERThe information provided on these pages is correct to the best of my knowledge, however the MasterTech makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data.

This information is disseminated in good faith, however MasterTech assumes NO LIABILITY whatsoever in regard to this service. The information, software, products, and services published on this web site may include inaccuracies or typographical errors. Changes are periodically added to the information herein. Mastertech may make improvements to this site at any time. Parts ordered from this website may or may not be in dealer stock at the time of order. Thank you for reading.